I’m a big guy. Really big. Fat even. I could stand to loose an entire person (ok an 11 year old person, but still). If you’re like me, you have a pretty standard business wardrobe. I have a sport coat for meetings and such, and the basic 3-4 suits (you know, black, grey, pinstripe and navy). Or you may think you can only get away with loose fitting clothes and polo shirts (I have 15 Polos). So, if you’re like me, you spend a tremendous amount of time trying to look good, and fashionable, all at the same time while being bigger than most stores care to provide for.
First of all, you’re awesome. Second, those stores can go suck it. Third, you can do it. It’s not as difficult as you think and I’m going to help.
Here’s a quick story about my early fashion choices, and how I’ve matured over the years with my selections. Men’s suitings have subtle nuances that have changed over the years, but the basics are still the same. Its been pretty much the same type for over a century. I’ll spare you time frames for this story, but know that my experience holds true today, as much as it did earlier in my career.
I need a Suit
So there I am, climbing the corporate ladder. Low and behold I’ve finally crested over the hump to be included in the after hours gatherings with major clients.
Whew. That took WAY TOO LONG.
Anyway, I’m excited. Part of client entertaining is going to require business formal dress, i.e. a suit and tie. I’ve always leaned on the preppy side, and in my own mind, I’m pretty nicely dressed for a big guy. But I don’t have any decent suits. My previous one was from Jos. A Bank.
Sidebar: They carry larger sizes and have a decent selection for their price point. Not my favorite choice as of 2009, but that’s a story for another time.
I’ve also bought from Men’s Wearhouse, K&G, Surrey, and the major department stores. Each of these places left me feeling… meh… I definitely did NOT nail looking good in their suits 100% of the time. I want to be confident. I have to feel good, and to be confident mind you, takes work. Plus, I want to do a good job representing my employer. I HAVE to get a new suit. The first meeting is months away, so I have time.
The purchase and results
I stroll into the local Men’s Store and find exactly NOTHING that fits great. I have a limited budget but I know a few things about quality suits from my dad’s closet and reading GQ as a teenager. I took a chance with a solid navy gem. After some whining and tinkering with the tailor, I found myself looking presentable. Several weeks later I made my way to a client meeting. I totally nailed being awesome at conversation with people who could care less about what I was saying (due to the fact I’m the junior guy and all) but at the end of the day, I felt accomplished. I had arrived. Now I just need to get to the corner office…..
Here’s what I learned. My hope is that it helps
Rarely are the “tailors” in these shops true suit tailors. Most are sewing professionals, and can handle pretty complex things, but if you are big or tall, their “tailors” just can’t handle the alterations satisfactorily from OTR (Off-The-Rack) suits. I’ve read 10,000 posts (not literally people) about finding a good tailor and all, but how do you know they exist where you buy your suits? I had no idea. But I will tell you, quality suits start with good construction and end with great fabric. It’s easier to alter a garment that is already superior to others, so here’s what I look for.
Jacket Construction & Size
- Shoulder fit – Slip the jacket on, and take a look at the shoulders. They should be even or slightly over the round part of your shoulder. No football looking styles. Or Crockett and Tubbs…. Geez!
- Arms – The arm should flow evenly from the shoulder down, no bunching or pinching.
- Back – I learned this trick from my Pop. With the jacket on, hold your hands out in front of you and cross/fold your arms. If the back of the jacket feels too tight, guess what Jack, it is.
- Buttons – Buttons are normally made of a harder material so they last a long time. Fine suits use actual horn, or cordso. I always take a look at the buttonholes, and how the buttons are sewn on. If buttonholes look messy, non-uniform, or there are loose strings, that’s a tell for the rest of the garment. As for the buttons themselves, fold over the button with your thumb and look at the thread. If it’s a quality garment, the thread will be noticeably thicker, and will “toggle” off the fabric (meaning its not sewn tightly to the jacket itself) because there’s some thread wound around to make the button stand off the jacket slightly. This is so it fits neatly in the buttonhole and doesn’t stress the button or thread.
- Sleeve Linings – Take a look at the armpit inside the jacket. If there is a sweat guard, or extra piece of material right at the armpit area, this is a good sign. Also, look at the lining of the end of the arm sleeve (wrist area). I peal back the lining where it’s sewn to the sleeve to see the stitching. With better constructed suits, you’ll notice the lining is loosely and uniformly tacked to the sleeve fabric (wider thread sewing). In more automated manufacturing methods, you’ll notice its machine stitched. It’s a subtle detail but some suit makers take the time for this and I appreciate it.
- Sizing & Canvas – Most suits you buy at a suit store will be fully canvased these days, meaning their inside is constructed of a burlap/cotton material used for giving the jacket a crisp firm look. Quality suits have a “floating” canvas. Others will be fused. How do you determine which they have? Glad you ask. Pinch the fabric in the chest area and pull it away from the inner lining. If it pulls away easily (you’ll be able to notice this quickly) it’s floating. Fused canvas doesn’t pull away.
- The Dreaded Stomach Area – For “executive” or “portly” gentlemen, this is where the rubber meets the road. The jacket is made or break in this area. Sidebar: what’s portly anyway? And I’ve not met many executives, meaning true Fortune XXX executives that were fat. Those dudes tend to be tall and handsome (Dang it genetics, foiled once again.) You’ll want to try the 2 inch test here to make sure its not sloppy or soupy. And guys, this is the ONLY time 2 inches is all you want. Here’s how to do it. Button the jacket, stand straight up, and pull the jacket away from your stomach. Anything more than 2 inches, its too big my friend. Same thing for the upper chest area.
- Length of Sleeves – Make sure the sleeve, once altered if needed, aren’t too long or too short. To test this, stand up straight with your arms down to your side, the cuff should rest just above the top of your thumb knuckle. Your shirt will be slightly below that, so anything longer and you won’t be able to see it.
- Length of Jacket Bottom – This one is more of a rule of thumb. You can play with length depending on how tall, short or round you are. Each have a way of drawing the eye to counter something. I’m more round than short. I’m 5’9” so I stand straight, arms down. The jacket bottom should be no more than ½ inch past your fingertips. Anything longer and you might risk looking like a zoot suit.
- Other nuances I’ve learned – Cuffs that work are cool. But there’s no need to leave one button unbuttoned. Vents can be a big guy’s friend or an arch nemesis. One center vent can tend to gap open due to the derriere. Side vents work nice for me, as does no vent. Notch lapels further down the chest line don’t work if you’re short (I’m not that tall so I avoid them) so look for ones that are higher up. And for Pete’s sake, you don’t want lapels that are as wide as they are long. That style died in the 80’s man.
Pants Construction and Size
- Size – Don’t try to size down. Get what feels right at your natural waistline. For me, it’s under the belly button. Remember, the larger your waist is, the more material, so if you can help it, steer towards flat front pants. Less material is good when our have a lot of your OWN material to cover. Plus you don’t want to look like you’re wearing a curtain do you? Gosh no.
- Belts & Braces – I have several nice belts. You probably know the rule about matching your belt to your shoes, etc. but consider this. Braces are better for bigger guys. The reason is it allows the pants to ride naturally on your waist, versus arbitrarily where you wrench your belt on your stomach. Everything feels better too. One thing about braces. They are NOT suspenders. Suspenders clip on. Braces button on.
- Pockets – There are several variations, but frankly, if you put our hands in your pockets as much as I do, DO NOT opt for a besom pocket. These are the kind of pockets that are sewn off the seam, away from the top edge. They just sit there. They’re weird to me. And I invariably always end up tearing them at the bottom. So for us pocket nerds, I recommend the slanted pocket.
- Lining – I have worn dress pants my whole life. I can’t tell you why, but pants that are lined just feel better to me. Sure, I like jeans and chinos, who doesn’t. But that lining really helps when you sit down. Its makes my thighs feel pretty.
- Crotch saddle – Along the same premise, if the pants have a crotch saddle, you are in for a treat. This little piece of heaven is shaped like a football and covers the crotch seam. The smaller edges are sewn down the seam of each leg and it truly helps save your pants inseam. I normally get satin but I’ve seen broadcloth and cotton too. The idea is to let this feature wear out instead of destroying the fabric because your inner thighs rub together when you walk. They have saved several of my best pants.
- Crotch Gusset – This is only found in some of the better quality pants. It’s a diamond shaped wedge of material in the intersection of the crotch. This feature allows the seams room so they don’t tug on your boys, if you know what I mean. Trust me on this one. If you have the luxury of this feature, you’ll wonder why all men’s pants makers don’t use it.
- Cuffs – Most people will steer you clear of cuffs. I actually like them. I stick with a 1¼ inch cuff, with a half break (this is the type of drape the cuff has over the shoe, and still meets nicely with the heel of the shoe).
I plan on doing more detailed individual posts on each element, and I’ll throw in some pictures and illustrations as well.
In my next blogpost about fashion, I’ll drive home the point about bespoke tailoring and how these wonderful folks have changed my sartorial life. Stay tuned.
